Los Testigos are remote. They’re around 75nm from the Venezuelan mainland. There is no port and no airport, so the only way to get here is by boat. It feels a very long way from anywhere. Only around 130 people live in the archipelago which consists of around 6 islands. We are anchored of Isla Grande in front of a small beach. The beach has a little fishing shack on it, and you can see where the fishermen have lit fires and cooked simple meals when it rains, and behind it is a beautiful little shrine with plastic flowers and melted candles. When it rains, it really rains: we have had two torrential downpours today; short lived but a spectacular amount of water. I’m always happy when this happens; not only does it make the most soothing sound below decks, but it also washes all the salt off the boat.
We had a good, long sleep (12 hours!). This afternoon I went for a walk on the island and took some photos. It’s covered in cactus, and a number found there way into my legs. The spines were so long they hit my feet after passing through my shoes! There are a few goats on the island but it’s otherwise very barren. One side has a huge, angry surf break, but the leeward side, where we have dropped our hook, is pretty calm.
Greg and I are learning Spanish from some CD’s that he bought in Trinidad. We’re up to lesson three, so we’re pretty fluent. I saw a local fishing boat tucked into a cove so I went over in the dinghy and gave them a solid ‘Hola! Como estas? Intienda ingles?’
They looked at me blankly. I guess they don’t speak Spanish, or perhaps they’re only up to lesson two.
Still, with international sign language they explained they were hand-lining with live bait. Far from being pirates they were friendly and engaging (although I swear one couldn’t take his eyes of my outboard) and we had a good chat in hand-span-glish. After a while I said adios and prepared to leave. One said something to guy who was obviously the captain and he nodded. He then dived into the hold and pulled out three fish, and gave them to me. Gracias! I went back to the boat and got them all a cold Heineken; I think they thought I was all right (for a gringo) after that. The sun is just setting, and they just steamed past, heading out past the islands for another nights fishing.
I am covered in scales from cleaning the fish; Greg has made a great marinade and the barbie is heating up (my American spell checker keeps wanting to capitalize Barbie, and it puts a ‘z’ in capitalise without me asking). We plan to leave for La Blanquilla at 0100 which should see us there by 1600 tomorrow, the 14th. It’s my mum’s birthday! Happy birthday mum!
13 Feb 2008
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